Ladakh - a dream come true experience

Characters of the trip

 

Me - Nivya

Brother - Kishore

Mother - Chitra

Family friend and brother to me - Srinivas

Srinivas's mother - Saroja aunty

Srinivas's friend and colleague - Jhansi

 

In Ladakh

 

Rigzin Dorje - Agent

Tundu - the driver

Noorbu - helper in the guest house

Abdul Khader - helper in the guest house

Sonam - the owner of the guest house

Sharma - caretaker in Nubra valley

Day 1 - In Delhi

We had started our journey on 16^th September by the early morning flight at 7.20 A.M to Delhi. Early morning flight charges are much less than the rest of the day. So anyone planning for the trips please make use of early morning flights. We reached Delhi by 10.10 A.M. The cab driver took us to the hotel and all of us were tired since we had to wake up in the morning at 3.A.M to get ready to the airport that morning. We refreshed quickly and were waiting for food like we have not eaten for 10 days :-). Somehow the food got ready by 2 P.M and we had a good lunch. Then we started for a local sight seeing to Qutub Minar and India Gate. Then we came back to the market area very near to our room. It was very similar to Ranganathan street in Chennai but very much spacious. We had coffee in a south Indian restaurant and then went into the market area. Again the time to hog was not farJ, found a chat stall and started having pani puri. Then we bought dinner packed up for the night and left to our room by 8.

Day 2 - In Leh

The next day we had to wake up again at 3.A.M because the flight to Leh  was at 6.10 A.M and got to be in the airport at 4.30 A.M. It was a one hour and ten minutes journey to Leh Airport. The flight journey was awesome like those Hollywood movies where a jet goes in-between the mountains. A heart touching view from above of the sunlight falling on the stupendous colorful mountains lined up just below you. What an experience it was.

 But going by road from Delhi to Leh would be a very different experience. At 7.10.A.M we landed in Leh Airport – the highest airport in the world. The town of Leh is at 11,562 feet above sea level. The moment we all got out of airplane we were astonished by the breathtaking view of mountains around. My hand directly went to get the camera from my backpack, but then army person very near said no pictures so had to keep my cam inside L. Somehow managed to take a picture from the airport bus J.

The temperature would have been 13 degree centigrade easily but we never thought of it and were in the same summer clothes as in Delhi. I started to shiver and my teeth started to clutter J. But that cold felt so good that I really ignored the need to wear a sweater . We came out of the airport and there was our driver and guide for Ladakh - Mr.Tundu. sent by our agent Mr. Rigzin Dorje, who arranged this entire trip and reached our guest house at around 8.30. Mr. Rigzin was there in the guest house to welcome us and led us right into the garden of the guest house which was so beautiful that I was very curious to go and find out what each plant was and why they grew it there.



We had all sat on a cute lawn with tea table and a beach swing. Mr.Rigzin spoke to us the summary of what was planned for the next 6 days. Anyone who goes to this altitude is requested to stay in the guest house for a day to get acclimatized to the climate and altitude and he also asked us not to take bath on the 1^st day.The oxygen level is very less and the lungs need to get tuned to the breathing in this location. So that is the main reason generally people are asked to stay in for a day. I was thinking of taking bath but this cold weather made my eyebrows go above the skyJ, so no bath on day 1J. I hate to stay indoors when I go to a new place  since I feel that we are missing the opportunity to see the place  completely so whether one gets stressed it would be fine but that spirit to explore and know about a new place always gives a beautiful feeling. So I was stuck on day 1 with all of us spending our time in the garden for most of the day. At 5 P.M the cold started to set so all of us went into our rooms to keep us warm.

Tea and soup is the best food to have in a cold climate.  By night Srinivas, Saroja aunty and Jhansi had vomited. Headache, nausea and vomit are normal to get in these altitudes. It actually scared all of us because to become ill during a trip was really bad, but later it was a very normal illness of the altitude so we all consoled each other and came out of this ill feeling. We also decided to have light food and fruits then on so that we don’t face the same issue. Those travelling to altitudes please have light food. Rotis, bread, cornflakes, dried fruits. fruits and soups will be the best type of food for such altitudes and drink a lot of water. Please avoid non-vegetarian food as well.

In any town in Ladakh electricity is available only for a few hours since the power generation in such altitudes is quite less and it is also a border region and people are advised to switch off the lights by 11 P.M to the maximum. In Leh being the capital, power was available for major part of 24 hours but in other valleys the duration was only for 4 to 5 hours from 7.P.M to 11.P.M. So get all your camera batteries charged up for the next day during the time the electricity is available. Since electricity production is less here there is no point of having heaters. But the water gets boiled through the huge boilers maintained outside each guesthouse. In the cold mornings even the boiler won’t be able to heat the water at times because the pipes are having cold J. So only a mild hot water would reach you and this is dependent on the temperature outside.

Day 3 - Local sight seeing in Leh

At 8.30 P.M on day 1 we went down to the ground floor to have dinner. Noorbu ,the little boy came with a smiling face. No matter how many times this guy went in to the kitchen he would always keep smiling. He had completed 10^th standard and working here part time as a helper in the guest house. He told that he failed in 2 subjects but he would be writing the exams in another 2 days where he would be leaving in 2 days. Even though he had failed it was the spirit which he told that he wants to clear the paper that made me admire him a lot. He kept us cheerful and was so concerned about us always. I would never forget him. 

We had vegetable soup, fried rice, roti with subji which were really fresh and delicious. Leh being in such a high altitude the vegetables and fruits are grown in the garden area of each house so that it would not have the need to transport the same to such a high altitude place. So we had food which was cooked using the garden vegetables. Cabbage, Turnip, carrots, potatoes, strawberry etc was the dominant ones in the garden. So many flowering plants were also there. Each house in Leh had a beautiful garden behind. We had our dinner and left to our rooms by 10.P.M. Next day was the start of the trip for the local sight seeing in Leh. We reached a river which all of us would have studied in our history books. Yes the great Indus river. On the way we saw the confluence of Indus River and Zanskar river which was absolutely wonderful sight. The blue Indus mixing with the brown Zanskar. Here is the wonderful picture of the same.

The water was so cold and the mighty river went on and on and on like a never ending dream. We had a good photo session. Kishore tried all poses. Here is a snapshot of those funny pictures right on the banks of the Indus river.



I really never even imagined that I would visit this place where the Indus valley civilization took place hundreds of years ago. All of us took a group snap and then we were on the go to the magnetic hill by around 11.30.P.M. The magnetic hill phenomenon is a spot where when any substance that would attract to magnets such as alluminium etc will move in this location without any force being given.



We had asked Mr.Tundu to switch off the car and placed in this location. The car moved automatically on the road towards the hill and everybody was amazed by this sight. If one keeps any rolling substance on the road the same would roll automatically to the direction of the hill. One should definitely try this out in this place.



Then we stopped near a Gurudwara on the way. There was a hill opposite to the Gurudwara which had steps to the top of the hill. The steps  were constructed and maintained by the army in memory of Operation Vijay who had lost his life fighting in the battle .

Me, Kishore and Srinivas decided to climb the top while Chitra, Saroja aunty and Jhansi stayed in the car. So we started our journey to the top. Army personnel were painting the steps and handle –bar in yellow. We just crossed them and went to the top. It took some time to get to the top but it was worth the view on top. Me and Kishore waved our hands from top to our car below. Chitra and Jhansi waved us back. The view was really beautiful.



The  area around the top had small stones mounted one above the other. Every side we turned we saw the setting that way. On our way back we asked the army personnel why it was kept so. It was arranged that way in memory of Operation Vijay.

We were back to the car by 12.30.P.M. and on the way to Hall of Fame museum. The museum was manned by an army personnel. We paid the entrance ticket of Rs.10 and all of us disappeared in the building studying the culture, geography, climate and wildlife of Ladakh. One really comes to know a lot about Ladakh in this museum. It was kept so well and there was a big model of Ladakh on the floor which would give an idea the entire Ladakh. Then there was a section of the soldiers who had fought so bravely in this place and secured the land of what we are visiting today. A salute to all the soldiers. There was a memorial of the various operations being handled and the names of the soldiers carved on the wall with the Indian flag fying so magestically in the centre. It was a very patriotic sight and I could not move from that location for sometime. It was almost 1.20 when I came out of the museum thanking the army personnel with my notes in the visitor’s diary.

It was 2.P.M when we were on the way to the guest house. There was still one more location to be visited – The Shanthi Stupa. It was very near to our guest house so we asked Mr.Tundu to take us there directly instead of going to the guest house. There are many monastries in Ladakh. Buddhism being the main religion followed by Ladakhis.Shanthi Stupa was in higher elevation in Leh. It was a mind boggling sight of the entire Leh valley from the Stupa. You can see for yourself from the picture below and some snapshots of our time at the Shanthi Stupa.

We started from Shanthi Stupa and reached our guest house  at 3.P.M.  We were informed to be ready at 9.A.M the next day for the drive to Nubra Valley via the Khardung La pass – the highest motor able peak in the world. But I came to know only the next day on the way that we are crossing the world’s highest motor able peak J. Rest of the day went on making ourselves warm. The best part of this place was there is so much water flowing around Ladakh but you won’t be in a position to use it because your hands would freeze once you wet it J. But the chillness in Ladakh is the speciality of this cold desert.

Day 4 - Trip to Nubra Valley

On Day 4 after breakfast at 8.A.M we started our 5 hour journey to Nubra Valley.  The drive was one heck of a beauty. Everywhere you turn your head there were beautiful mountains passing around you. I wish I had ten hands with ten cameras to capture J J.

As we kept climbing to reach Khardung La pass the chill was more intense and for the first time in my life I was near ice. J. Oh God what a feeling it was. Then the car stopped behind 4 army vans which were waiting along the pass. I did not know that it was the pass. Kishore got down and had disappeared suddenly. The car then moved after the army vans and proceeded to the pass and there was Kishore having tea standing next to the Highest cafeteria in the world. Srinivas went to the Army camp to get some medicines. I got down. The chill was mind boggling. The Himalayan breeze kissed all of us welcome. What a moment of a lifetime it was to be  at 17,582 feet( 5,359 m) above sea level. Both the moms got down as well. At 53 and 60 years they rocked. We felt so good to bring them at this age and they were ready for anything. J. I saw a person with his pet dog pug. Check out the snapshots of our time at the Khardung La pass.

This is what I felt standing on this pass. God…. Thank you for making me come here. Mr. Rigzin Dorje asked us not to get down the pass while going for the first time but to get down only while coming back to Leh but guess we broke the rule and got down J. Khardung La is 29 kms from Leh town and is the gateway to Shyok and Nubra Valley.

We were on our way to Nubra valley which is 150 kms from Leh and at 10,000 feet above sea level. So we thought we could escape the cold of Leh at least a little bit J. The roads were going downhill and in zig zag motion that made both the moms back to their vomiting levels J. But it was a passing phase and they always came back to their normal spirits. We made a stop near a small town where all the shops were closed. It was a Sunday and we really forgot what day it was being in this beautiful dream called Ladakh. We had packed up some rotis given by the guest house but we preferred to have fruits to keep the food light since there was more to travel. Mr.Tundu ran into a building and came back in 5 mins telling that he finished his lunch. Man at what speed he had I thought J. He started to laugh.  Then we got back into the car and were on the go to the monastery in the village called Diskit. The view of Nubra valley from the monastery was amazing. Check the photo taken from the monastery. There was a large statue of Buddha. The status was very colorful. Check out for yourself in the picture below:

Then we started from there toward the desert region of the Nubra valley. The place was called Hundar. We reached after 20 minutes to the desert location where sand dunes were amazing with the background of mountains. WOW! In a little distance we saw the camels. Me, Kishore, Srinivas and Jhansi headed towards the camels while both the moms were tired and decided to stay in the car. It was a very good site to see this many camels. The person in-charge for the ride asked us to climb and each one of us had a bump while the camel stood J. We had asked the person to take all the 4 camels together, so he tied the rope from one neck to another. I was on the lead camel named Shakthimaan. Shakthimaan was on the way as we rocked on front and back. The camels here had 2 humps and we were seated between the humps. We were charged Rs.150 each for a 15 minute ride. We wanted a picture with the camel and handed over the camera to the camel trainer. I placed one of hand on my dear Camel Shakthimaan’s head for the picture but he sniffed and I withdrew my hand immediatelyJ. Here are the pictures:

Back to our car we were heading back to the guest house in Nubra Valley. It was a bamboo house. We just reached before dusk and there was the moon waiting for completion within 3 days to become a full moon. But the moon and the mountains were superb. The bamboo guest house we stayed was in Sumur village. Then we all gathered in one room and were having great fun chatting and criticizing each other just for fun. Only 4 hours of electricity is available from 7.P.M to 11.P.M in this valley. All the chargers were on in the rooms and we were back together for a game of cards and then went for dinner. We got introduced to Mr. Sharma who was the caretaker for the guest house. He was one amazing person who made all of us feel like home. I will never forget this person as well. The dinner was awesome like home food and rice at last. Rice…. I missed you for few days and I was rejuvenated nowJ. The dinner was like south-Indian and all of us double enjoyed it. All of us retired for the day to our cute bamboo house guest room.

Day 5 – Started to Leh from Nubra Valley

We woke up to the beautiful sunny morning and had a look at the life around. There were apricot and apple trees and so many vegetables in the garden. It was like a paradise. Take a look at the snapshots of the time we had in the place where we stayed in Nubra valley.



Mr.Sharma asked the previous day as to what breakfast we wanted the next day. We said anything is fine. If possible a south Indian dish we told. All of us went for break-fast in the morning at 8.A.M. So sweet of the guest house people to have made Upma for us in the morning. The hospitality of Mr. Sharma and everybody was amazing. All of us took a snap with the guest house caretakers. There was one lady who also takes care  of the guest house who had come to Chennai earlier in her life. She told us all the experiences she had especially the south Indian food. She loved the sambar and idly. It was really nice talking to her. All of us together had taken a snap. Take a look at the same.

We started our journey back to Leh at 9.30 P.M from Nubra valley. For a moment everybody was very silent in the car. I did not want to close my eyes since this is the only opportunity where I would see this place to keep my memories of this place alive. It was such a wonderful time we had which will stay forever in my memories. On the way back to Leh via the Khardung La pass myself, Kishore and Tall got down. This time this place was litlle hot. Having tea in cold weather and in this altitude is another wonderful experience. We were back to Leh at 2.P.M. I need to mention Mr.Tundu’s driving. He is student who is pursuing B.A.in Arts in Jammu University and working part time by driving for the tourists in Ladakh. His driving was amazing because he does it out of his passion. I was able to see that interest in him when I sat in front. One more amazing soul who is pursuing his passion. It feels really good to meet people who are passionate in their lives. So the number of people who I will never forget list is going on and on and on. The plan for the next 2 days was to visit the grand finale destination of our trip – Pangong Tso Lake.

Day 6

At 9.A.M we started our 5 hour trip to the south east of Ladakh to a small town called Tangse where we had to stay for the day and see the Pangong Tso lake in the morning of Day 7. As we all got into the car Saroja aunty was very curious to know if the roads would be zigzag today as well. I need to mention about Saroja aunty. She is a very curious person who finds out about the place a lot by talking to the locals and I had always admired her spirit of finding out about the people here and how they lead their lives on a daily basis. It is so nice to hear from her. My mom – Chitra is a very quite person but who loves to see new places and new people. The only hindrance I felt when I was in Ladakh is the language. Myself and mom do not know hindi but a little bit but we can understand to a certain extent. The rest of the 4 know hindi well. But not a problem at all. People here speak English well since English is the medium of instruction in the schools, hindi the second language.  Ladakhi is the mother tongue of all the people here. When Saroja aunty asked how high would we be going today. Mr.Tundu started to pull her that we will just be going through a pass which is 1000m less than the Khardung La. She said Oh my God J. She made our journey full of laughter no matter what.  On the way to the town of Tangtse we went to another monastery.
 

 
    Then we were off to the little town of Tangtse which is very near to the border of India and China. This time we were to cross the pass Chang La at 17,590 feet( 5360m) above sea level. WOW!! another beautiful pass.
 
 

We got down to see the wonderful view around and left by 10 minutes. It was another 2 hour journey to the town of Tangtse. By 2.30 P.M we reached Tangtse.  The guest house was run by a family. They had a grocery store and a restaurant as well. As we entered the guest house we saw many photos of  Bollywood celebrities who stayed in this place  along  with the aunty who took care of this place. She was a super multi-tasking women whom I admired. We got our lunch packed from the guest house in Leh. What astonished us was the lunch each guest house packed for us. There was Roti, subji, juice and chocolate in each of the box. We were moved by the hospitality of Ladakh. So much concern they had for us that we felt like never to leave this place. L. But every journey has and end. L L L… We had our lunch and all of them moved to their rooms. Me and mom-Chitra did not want to sleep because it was more cold and we wanted to go out and see this place around. So both of us went out and walked along the road to a good distance and were observing the life around. Every person would smile and greet you Juley if you do. Me and mom went to a shop and got Lays chips since it has been days that we had not taken something hot. We somehow made an attempt to speak in hindi and successfully accomplished our mission to speak hindi to a Ladakhi after learning hindi in the last 4 days. J J…

Then Srinivas, Jhansi and Saroja aunty also came out. Kishore the lazy fellow stayed in the room. We 5 walked to a good stretch of the town and enjoyed talking to the locals. Take a look at the town of Tangtse in the snaps above.

Saroja aunty did not sleep in the nights because of the cold so we went to the hospital just opposite our guest house. The medical service in Ladakh is free of cost. The doctor was so friendly. Saroja aunty was talking to the doctor that it is very cold in this place. The doctor started to laugh telling to look at the flowers and greenery. This is the best season. All this place would turn to snow in another 2 months. Saroja aunty was really shocked because the doctor told that this is the best season where flowers are in full bloom while she was unable to bear the cold in this season itself. J. We are at 35 degrees of hot condition in Chennai and now at 1 to 12 degrees in Ladakh. We feel the cold but this is normal for people in Ladakh.  Then we returned at 5.30.P.M to our room. Guest house aunty got us tea and it was simply superb. Then she asked us what we wanted for dinner. We asked if Chinese noodles can be done. She was fine with it. At this altitude I really did not mind any food. While returning back to our rooms we met 3 foreigners who went on a cycling trek to the Pangong lake and were back to the guest house for the night. They were from Denmark, Kirghistan and U.S. All of us got introduced and left to our room. We had a very good time here chatting for a long time that we did not see the time. It was 8.30 P.M. In the dinner room the cycling trekkers were already having their dinner. The dinner tables were set in Chinese style and it was a very cozy setting. Guest house aunty had made Rotil, subji, Chinese noodles, white rice and curd. Everything was good. Noodles, I really enjoyed it so well. Single handed she had served for all of us. Such a sweet person she was. We had a very good chat with Jeff , the cyclist trekker from U.S who kept talking about their experiences. The person from Denmark was quite but if you ask something then he spoke up well. The person from Kirghistan was silent having his favourite Roti and dal. Dal was his all time favourite and a definite credit should be given to this person for the way he was having the roti in small piece and dipping in dal and having his food. He had his own way of eating so ethically J. After an hour of chatting and eating all of us bid farewell to them and went back to our rooms to take a good nap before we go the next day to Pangong lake.

Day 7 - Grand finale of the trip to the beautiful Pangong lake


As the sun came  above the mountains it was a cherished sight to view. Our room had the window with east facing so the morning sunlight was bright and beautiful for a day at the Pangong lake. We started at 8.30.A.M exactly. Before bidding farewell to our guest house in Tangtse we thanked the family and took a snap with guest house aunty, her husband and Mr.Tundu. Check out the snap below:

We had bid farewell and left to Pangong lake which was 30kms from Tangtse. Everyone was so curious to see this place ever since we saw this place in the movie 3 Idiots. An hour passed as we were nearing the lake. I was waiting to see the blue water and it was a perfect weather to enjoy by the side of the lake. We were almost reaching the end of the way the start of the lake was viewable from the car. WOW! was the reaction from all of us. J. It was so so so wonderful that I just felt like flying out in the air and reach the lake ;D. God what a beautiful place. Beauty untouched. Check it out for yourself through the snaps below:

We spent 2 hours near the lake and left our way back to Leh. The lake is about 134 kms long. 30 percent being on Indian land and 70% in China. I am really out of words to tell about this place. It is a endorheic lake and not much of life could be found because of its state. But make it one in your list of places to see before you die. On our way back to Leh we stopped by the school in Shey which was affected by the cloud burst of 6th August 2010 and made our humble donation towards the re-building cost for the school which is being run for the poor children of Leh. Then we were back to Leh by evening and the end of our trip was coming near :(... It was the last dinner in Leh which was really good. The guest house people were so kind they had done tomato soup and extra special food for us since we were leaving the next day. I definitely have to mention about Abdul Khader the guest house helper. He is one soft spoken and amazing person I will never forget. He made us feel so comfortable and was a trekker in the past as well. He told us all his experiences and how he had dealt with people who come for trekking from around the world. And finally Mr. Rigzin Dorje had come in to ask about the experience we had for the past 6 days in Ladakh. It was so sweet of him to come and discuss with us regarding it. I am very thankful to him for arranging such a wonderful trip for us. Perfect arrangement. :) Please check out the snap where Mr.Abdul and Mr.Rigzin is there.

The next day we left back to Delhi.

I need to mention specially about the people here. I really have never met people so good and kind hearted in my life. The hospitality cannot be expressed in words. One has to really feel it by being in this place. People of Ladakh made the trip unforgettable for us touching our hearts deeply. You may not know them but they would definitely smile and say Juley ( meaning Hello in Ladakhi) to you.

A humble request to all the people. The place is polluted by tourists who come here. Please don't litter not only here but anywhere else in the world wherever you go. Leave the place just the way it was as you saw and don't litter.